Timing Belt, Water pump, cam seals, front main seal

Over the last couple weekends I replaced the practically everything on the front of the engine that can break or leak.

• Timing Belt
• It probably did not need to be replaced, but the water pump and the various seals needed to be. If I am going that deep, its worth changing.
• Water Pump, 
• it started seeping coolant after the track day, a slow but steady drip from the front center of the engine.
• Easy to change.
• A thin coat of RTV on each of the gaskets and slide everything back together. 
• Torque the bolts appropriately.
• Cam Seals, these were definitely leaking.
• Once I remove the bearing caps, the old seals come right out without risk of damaging the cams.
• A little flange sealant on the bearing cap mating surfaces and reinstall the new seals.
• Front main
• This was a PITA to get out.
• I ended up using a lisle shaft seal remover. It did require some modification to the tool to get it to work. Basically I just bent the tab so it would engage more with the seal. 
• I reinstalled using the front main installation tool from flyin miata. It made it a snap.
• Pipe to Engine Lower radiator hose
• Quick easy fix
• New worm screw hose clamps
• New grommets in brake master cylinder resevoir
• Its amazing as tight as the old ones were, they were leaking.
• No further leaking since they were replaced.
• You can get the grommets without the master cylinder from finish  line/rosenthal mazda, or mazda motorsports if you are allowed to order from them.

Next steps, tack the leaks from the back of the engine. The rear main and or the flywheel bolts seem to be leaking. I am in the process of removing the transmission from the car. While the transmission is out, I will assess the clutch, address any leaks on the transmission. I will definitely be replacing the input seal and the output seals on the transmission.

I have already removed the header to down pipe nuts. These have proved to be a a serious pain in the past. I am working on the power plant frame bolts. The rear most bolt always seems to be frozen and a part of the differential. I ended up resorting to the 3/4 inch drive impact with no avail. I will keep hammering on it over the next few days and see where I get. Luckily I do not have to have this bolt out to remove the transmission, though it will certainly make it easier. After this bolt it out, the rest tend to come out ok, but there are typically just access issues. These are nothing 36 inches of extensions and a couple universal joints cannot solve.

I will make sure I get photos of the transmission removal.